Friday, September 11, 2009

The holy month of Ramadan

Having done my full share of fasting and participating eagerly in the holy month of Ramadan in several countries throughout the Middle East, I find myself particularly vexed by the Ramadan experience here. Here is the list:

Driving - It is difficult to fully put into words how much driving skills degrade during Ramadan, as driving skills are certainly not a strength of Palestinians to begin with. Perhaps it is because minds don't think straight when the body is deprived of food and water (and nicotine!) for a full 10 hours, I try to be sympathetic to this point. Most drivers during Ramadan do not yield way, do not stop at intersections, run red lights, try to pass around traffic when there is no room to pass and generally forgo any civil actions on the road that might have been present prior to Ramadan. A few days ago, I was trying to back out of a parking lot onto a city street. Nobody would yield way and when a store owner came to my rescue to help direct traffic while I pulled out, a full 5 drivers completely ignored him. I have seen at least one accident per day since the start of Ramadan, and many days its 2-3 accidents. I just can't believe the surprise of the drivers who cause the accidents...they didn't think that this would possibly be the result of their irresponsible maneuvers? To compensate for all this craziness, I am driving like an old lady - slowly and with my indicators always on.

Time changes - In a move that seems fully futile, the Palestinian authority changes to "winter time" during Ramadan. That has no impact on the number hours of fasting. And it creates havoc with schedules given that neighboring Israel (and thus Jerusalem where a lot of our business is done) is still on summer time. Since the time change, I have missed 3 time-relevant work deadlines and have had to make extra calls to confirm exact starting times of meetings. I honestly can't believe the time change is worth all this havoc.

Business Hours - This is an inconvenience solely to the person not practicing Ramadan. During Ramadan, businesses don't have set opening hours. Some close the entire month. Most open late in the mornings and then are open for just a few hours before closing for the break of the fast. Some re-open after breaking the fast, some don't. As it concerns the numerous cafes and restaurants in Ramallah, they may open after the break of the fast, but with very limited service. Or, they are open, but only serve a large Ramadan Iftar (breakfast).

The Office - When it comes to the office place, colleagues who normally evacuate quickly at closing hours, evacuate an hour earlier. Male colleagues claim they have to run home to help prepare dinner, but talking to my female colleagues, the truth is that they run home for a 2-3 hour nap while their wives, who have also been fasting all day, prepare elaborate meals for an extended family. (Note: An Iftar meal is deemed sufficient not by the amount of food, but by the number of different dishes) I have one colleague who keeps his office door closed during Ramadan - its public knowledge that this colleague is actually napping most of the day behind close doors. I find myself busier than ever at work and I can't help but think it is because I am making up for all my fasting colleagues. Should I be more sympathetic?

I feel obligated to end on a positive note, as there are many things I do like about Ramadan. It is like celebrating Christmas for an entire month. There is much joy and comfort in celebrating and visiting with friends and family who share in the stresses of fasting, and who also share in the thankfulness of a wonderful meal. There is a lightness to the air in the evenings, when people gather full of renewed energy to spend relaxed in each other's company - smoking a sheesha, drinking tea, listening to music and just "hanging out." I definitely believe the smaller annoyances are a small price to pay to the enjoyment of loving company at sunset.

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